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Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock

Banff National Park

Banff + Yoho, Alberta

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Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock

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  • Hiking up from Lake Agnes. It's a beast of a climb and rather demoralizing. It's mostly steep and awkward scree. The route follows ledges features back and forth and occasionally takes talus or scree upward to the next bench. - Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock
  • Checking out the route on the Niblock Whyte Col.- Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock
  • Most will try and do Niblock in the same day because it is a quick and moderate scramble to reach the summit from the col. - Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock
  • The main crux of Mount Whyte involves a traverse to the right when coming from the col. There is a large steep gendarme with a gulley, but you can follow a ledge system around it. The ledge gets very narrow.- Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock
  • The bowl beyond the ledge will feel much easier than the ledge from before, though it is on par with Niblock in difficulty with numerous big steps. Beware as this area has plenty of loose rock. - Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock
  • Above this is the summit ridge, which has some of the most superb scrambling. The whole plain of Six Glacier, Mount Temple, and the Wapta are all visible from this point. - Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock
  • Heading along the ridge in the direction of North Victoria. - Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock
  • Looking down the valley to the Death Trap between Victoria and Lefroy. - Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock
  • Looking back toward Mount Niblock. - Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock
  • Enjoying the view from the ridge.- Mount Whyte + Mount Niblock
Overview + Weather
Pros: 
The best view of the Lake Louise Peaks. Extended quality scrambling. Generally quiet.
Cons: 
Loose rock. Lots of slogging up scree.
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Region:
Banff + Yoho, AL
Access: 
Vehicle
Climbing:
Non
Congestion: 
Low
Pets allowed: 
No
Site characteristics: Drinking water: 
Unfrozen water
Recommended Equipment:
Helmets
Highest point: 
2,960.00 m (9,711.29 ft)
Alpine climbing NCCS rating: 
Grade I
Year round: 
Yes
Parking Pass: 
National or state forest pass
Permit required: 
No
Preferable Season(s):
Summer, Fall
Primary aspect: 
East facing
Total Distance: 
15.73 km (9.77 mi)
Total elevation gain: 
1,690.00 m (5,544.62 ft)
Trailhead Elevation: 
1,740.00 m (5,708.66 ft)
Typically multi-day: 
No
Current Local Weather:
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Adventure Description

Adventure Description

Pro Contributor

Mount Whyte is one of the best views views short of Mount Temple that one can experience in and around Lake Louise. It is a tricky scramble with a couple of rather exhilerating moves. Most people will include Mount Niblock in this trip because the peaks share a col, and just getting there is often the most frustrating part. 

The route begins in the Lake Louise car park. Due to the recent popularity and challenges finding a spot at this site, it is recommended to get to the lot prior to 7 a.m. If you arrive any later you risk having the use the shuttle service. 

The trail follows the signs to Lake Agnes, about 2 kilometers above the Chateau Lake Louise. The hike is busy even early in the morning with many folks heading to the tea house. Once at the tea house, follow the signs for the Beehive, which lead to the opposite side of the lake. At this junction, keep following the lake shore. The trail will grow much fainter because people rarely go here. Keep walking along this route heading up the valley at the end of the lake. This section has plentiful wildflowers, bublling brooks, and is a lovely escape from the madness of the tea house. 

The trail often has cairns. Head up the huge scree and talus pile, the point of which abuts a band of rock. A short scramble gets you through this onto a ledge system. Head to the climber's left and around the second long band on vertical rock. Then zig back up this new ledge. Toward the top of this area the ledges become narrower and tigher, and you will zig and zag your way to climber's right side of the col. The col is wide and covered with shale. From here most folks go and tag the nearby Mount Niblock. It's a quick hour-long extension at most, and it is definitely worth it. 

To get to Mount Whyte, carry on the ridge heading westward. The ridge narrows as you approach a rockband. Proceed to the climber's left of the rock band, walking under the wall where a weakness will allow you to move through the scree and talus up to the next band of rock. Steep climbing beside a vertical wall gets you to a ledge. This narrow ledge is one of the most challenging sections, and at points only your toes will be on the ledge. Gently sidestep your way into a broad bowl with loose but decent scrambling. 

You can gain the ridge by continuing upward from here. On the ridge you can walk between spires, and you'll have a superb view of the area. Mount Temple is most prominent, along with Mount Victoria and Mount Lefroy. In the distance, Mount Stephen and the Presidents offer additional superb views.

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Location + Directions

Location + Directions

Nearby Camping + Lodging

(1 within a 30 mile radius)

Nearby Adventures

(24 within a 30 mile radius)

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