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Sunshine Slabs

Banff + Yoho, Alberta

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Sunshine Slabs

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  • Climbing at the Sunshine Slabs.- Sunshine Slabs
  • Dogs are allowed in the park, but make sure your pooch is on a leash.- Sunshine Slabs
  • Steeple Chase is a classic route for beginners. A crimpy start leads to some fun ledges. - Sunshine Slabs
  • Belaying in the shade for nearly the whole day. - Sunshine Slabs
  • The wall sits next to a horse paddock.- Sunshine Slabs
  • Much of the crag's base was washed away in the 2013 floods. - Sunshine Slabs
  • Erosion from the flood leads to some awkward belaying at times. This is one of the trad routes. There are two bolts, but the route is pretty stiff for a 5.6, and the cruxes are not near the bolts. - Sunshine Slabs
  • The area stays in the shade.- Sunshine Slabs
  • Further along the crag there are a few overhangs and steeper, longer routes. - Sunshine Slabs
Overview + Weather
Pros: 
Roadside access. Lots of easy and intermediate climbs. Shaded.
Cons: 
Busy. No hard routes.
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Region:
Banff + Yoho, AL
Access: 
Vehicle
Climbing:
Sport climbing, Trad climbing
Congestion: 
Moderate
Pets allowed: 
Yes, with restrictions
Site characteristics: Drinking water: 
Unfrozen water
Recommended Equipment:
Helmets, Harness / rope / anchors, Trad rack
Class / Rating: 
5.6 - 5.11b
Highest point: 
1,370.00 m (4,494.75 ft)
Alpine climbing NCCS rating: 
Grade II
Number of pitches: 
45
Year round: 
Yes
Parking Pass: 
National or state forest pass
Permit required: 
No
Preferable Season(s):
Summer, Spring
Primary aspect: 
South facing
Total Distance: 
0.11 km (0.07 mi)
Total elevation gain: 
30.00 m (98.43 ft)
Trailhead Elevation: 
1,340.00 m (4,396.33 ft)
Typically multi-day: 
No
Current Local Weather:
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Adventure Description

Adventure Description

Pro Contributor

Sunshine Slabs is the easiest crag to access in the Bow Valley. You can basically belay out of your car. For route information, check out the latest addition of Bow Valley Rock. The crag is located about 100 meters south of the turnoff to Sunshine from the Trans Canada. The crag stretches across a big rock face and has a very high concentration of routes for a Rockies crag. It is mostly sport climbing on limestone, though there are a few odd trad climbs. It has a unique feature in that one section of the crag requires a scramble to access. You'll need to amble up a ledge to get to the belayer's spot for about six of the routes. This is worthwhile as they are great routes with superior views. On the climber's left are the longer routes. There are a few 5.6 routes that are nearly 30 metres along with some trickier problems. In the center are most of the hardest routes, mostly 5.10ds and a couple af 5.11as. 

The river running beside the crag is fairly cold, though it can be nice to hop in for a dip. There is an offshoot of the main flow, so you don't have to worry about getting dragged away. On sweltering days this can be really nice, but the crag is in the shade for nearly the whole day, which is rather nice. 

While there aren't many places to walk up from behind and set up a top rope, it is a good spot to take beginners if you don't mind leading. Watch out for guided parties on the weekends. 

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(16 within a 30 mile radius)

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