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Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble

Squamish-Lillooet Area, British Columbia

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Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble

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  • Joffre Peak has the same approach as Vantage Peak and Mount Matier. - Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • En route to Joffre Peak.- Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • Scrambling up the short rock face to avoid getting onto the glacier.- Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • Checking out the views from Joffre Peak.- Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • Ascending the first ramp near the top. - Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • Looking out toward Mount Matier.- Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • There is an anchor with an old rope left hanging to the climber's right. It is on steeper fifth class terrain, and using it is not recommended.- Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • Above the steep section and walking toward the talus. You can't see it from this angle, but the hidden ramp is directly above. - Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • Climbing Joffre Peak.- Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • Standing beneath the false summit. Mount Matier is in the background.  - Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • Approaching the false summit. This is where the fun ends. The real summit is perhaps more satisfying, but it's also no fun at all getting there. - Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • Traversing to the volcanic silt. This section is horrid and filled with awkward, balancing steps on footholds that keep slipping away. An ice ax would actually be a nice tool to have as the shafts provide better support than trekking poles, and it would b- Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
  • Crossing to the real summit. - Joffre Peak: Northeast Ridge Scramble
Overview + Weather
Pros: 
Excellent rock. Consistently interesting scrambling. Good entry level mountaineering.
Cons: 
Long, knee-pounding descent. Tricky route finding. Overhead hazard.
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Region:
Squamish-Lillooet Area, BC
Access: 
Hike-in
Climbing:
Non-technical rock
Congestion: 
Moderate
Pets allowed: 
Yes, with restrictions
Site characteristics: Drinking water: 
Unfrozen water
Number of days: 
2
Recommended Equipment:
Helmets, Ice axe / crampons
Highest point: 
2,690.00 m (8,825.46 ft)
Distance: 
7.00 km (4.35 mi)
Alpine climbing NCCS rating: 
Grade II
Year round: 
Yes
Parking Pass: 
None
Permit required: 
No
Preferable Season(s):
Summer, Fall
Primary aspect: 
East facing
Total Distance: 
15.30 km (9.51 mi)
Total elevation gain: 
1,540.00 m (5,052.49 ft)
Trailhead Elevation: 
1,270.00 m (4,166.67 ft)
Typically multi-day: 
Yes
Current Local Weather:
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Adventure Description

Adventure Description

Pro Contributor

As the hardest route in the ever popular Scrambles in Southwest British Columbia, Joffre Peak is one of the coast's most enjoyable scrambles. With decent rock and some tricky routefinding, it's an excellent alpine day out. 

From the trailhead on the Duffey Lake Road you follow the well-marked summer trail up the Cerise Creek. The trail heads south after the bridge and heads up onto the lower flanks of Joffree and onto a logging road. Eventually the road forks, and the main trail follows the right fork uphill. The logging road ends, diving back into the woods on heavily rooted but well-maintained trail. The trail takes a little time to ascend and gets particularily steep through a talus field shortly before meeting Keith's Hut. From here you can spend the night or continue up the ridge to the looker's right of the hut. The trail begins in the southwest corner of the meadow. Up the ridge it gains to a large lump called Motel 66. This popular camping spot has beautiful views, but be sure to bring wag bags as there are no toilet facilities. Increasing human traffic in this area is stressing this environment and creating bear attractants. 

The route begins here and crosses down over talus fields trending toward a big snow field. Many parties choose to do this route early in the day to avoid late rockfall and take advantage of stiffer snow conditions that make travel easier. Above this snow field there is a big shelf right on the edge of the glacier that affords good views of the valley and the route. A ridge ramps up to a steep face that can be traversed and ascended to a slope beneath a big snowfield that remains well into the late season. From here you edge up against the snowfield to a wide ramp that isn't really visible until you are beside it. The ramp ends abruptly at the ridge, and there is some scrambling up an arete followed by one exposed traverse move that puts you onto wide open talus fields. This wraps around the false peak into a silt-filled gulley. Awkward and loose steps make for the least pleasant terrain of the day, but you're there on the summit. 

The descent offers few suprises and goes quickly, though it can really pound the knees. Moving quickly is advisable because some areas are prone to rockfall. 

Equipment

You can bring ropes on this scramble because there is one good spot to rappel the crux. A 50-meter rope would be required and is probably not worth the effort unless some members of the party are particularly uncertain on their feet in the mountains. Helmets are essential and decent hiking boots are recommended. In the early season, ice axes and crampons would be nice to have. Aside from that it's the usual equipment one would expect for a scramble in the alpine. Ten essentials and extra food are advisable as conditions do change rapidly.

 

For a detailed technical description of this route, refer to Scrambles in Southwest British Columbia by Matt Gunn.

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(4 within a 30 mile radius)

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