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Pixie Rock - Climbing Crag

Joshua Tree National Park

Western Sonoran + Colorado Desert, California

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Pixie Rock - Climbing Crag

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  • Pixie Rock at Indian Cove Campground, Joshua Tree National Park.- Pixie Rock - Climbing Crag
  • Pixie Rock at Indian Cove Campground, Joshua Tree National Park.- Pixie Rock - Climbing Crag
  • Pixie Rock at Indian Cove Campground, Joshua Tree National Park.- Pixie Rock - Climbing Crag
Overview + Weather
Pros: 
Best kid-friendly/beginner crag in Joshua Tree. Adjacent to Indian Cove Campground.
Cons: 
Sun and wind exposure. Very crowded.
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Region:
Western Sonoran + Colorado Desert, CA
Congestion: 
High
Pets allowed: 
No
Recommended Equipment:
Harness / rope / anchors, Helmets
Alpine climbing NCCS rating: 
Grade V
Net Elevation Gain: 
50.00 ft (15.24 m)
Parking Pass: 
National Park Pass
Preferable Season(s):
Spring, Fall
Total Distance: 
0.00 mi (0.00 km)
Trailhead Elevation: 
3,160.00 ft (963.17 m)
Current Local Weather:
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Adventure Description

Adventure Description

Contributor

Pixie Rock is a super popular formation that belongs to the larger Indian Cove climbing area in Joshua Tree National Park. The crags in this zone tend to feature rock that’s a bit crumby, though the variety and quality of routes rival those in Hidden Valley.

True to its name, it’s quite a bit shorter than many of the other zones in the park, though climbers from far and wide flock to Pixie Rock to get their hands on one of the ultra J-Tree classics: Silent Scream. This 10b climbs up the right side of the formation and boasts a dicey yet thought-provoking move just below the top out. There’s nearly always a line to get on it, but ask almost anyone and they’ll tell you it’s worth the wait.

This is one of the most utilized areas in the park for kids and beginner classes thanks to its slabby belly and excellent top rope capabilities. It shouldn’t deter you from visiting, though; many proudly boast that their climbing careers were born at Pixie Rock. As an added bonus, the approach from the road takes approximately 15 seconds.

There’s a short wooden fence surrounding the outcropping to help reduce environmental impact. Be sure to stay on trail and to practice the principles of Leave No Trace. The park service has erected a sign to help climbers identify routes, though climbers have reported that it bears some misinformation. It’s suggested that you bring along your own guidebook. As far as camping goes, it’s situated near Indian Cove Campground. Though there’s a $15 charge to stay here, the park service doesn’t charge an entrance fee.

​Note: Power drilling for bolt placement is strictly prohibited without a permit. Bolts must be 3/8" or 1/2" stainless steel. All hangers and anchors must be colored to match rock.

Trad/Top Rope Routes

  • Who’s First, 5.6 | Trad
  • Scream Chuck, 5.7 | Trad (run out)
  • Rhythm of the Heat 5.8 | Trad
  • Pixie Stick, 10a | Top Rope
  • Silent Scream (aka Shock the Monkey), 5.10a  | Trad
  • Silent but Deadly, 5.11a | Trad
  • Lascicious Conduct, 5.11c | Trad

Boulder Problems

  • Pixie Dust  V1 | 10 feet 
  • Monkey Gone to Heaven, V3 | 20 feet
  • Snappa, V3 | 10 feet
Updates, Tips + Comments

Updates, Tips + Comments

Field Guide

Field Guide

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Location + Directions

Location + Directions

Nearby Camping + Lodging

(10 within a 30 mile radius)

Nearby Adventures

(29 within a 30 mile radius)

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Adventure Community

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Who's Done It
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