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Aiguille du Tour, East Face

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Aiguille du Tour, East Face

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  • The view from the summit of Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Hiking toward the hut near Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Snow patches on the approach to Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Hiking toward the hut near Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • The approach to Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Nearing the hut on Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Hiking toward the hut near Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Aiguille du Chardonnet in the distance.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Last snow traverse before the hut on Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Looking toward Chamonix valley.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Inside the hut.
- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Col du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Heading toward the base of the climb from Col du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Nearing the base of the climb.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Heading toward the summit of Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • The view from the summit of Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • The view from the summit of Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Looking toward Trient Glacier.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Descending Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Enjoying the view while waiting for traffic jam to dissipate.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Looking toward Trient Glacier.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Aiguille du Chardonnet in the background.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • Tour Glacier.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
  • A traffic jam at the route to Aiguille du Tour.- Aiguille du Tour, East Face
Overview + Weather
Pros: 
Easy access. Easy grade.
Cons: 
Crowded. Rock fall.
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Region:
Other,
Access: 
Hike-in
Climbing:
Snow / glacier / ice route, Non
Congestion: 
High
Pets allowed: 
No
Site characteristics: Drinking water: 
Snowmelt
Recommended Equipment:
Helmets, Harness / rope / anchors, Ice axe / crampons, Additional ice tools
Highest point: 
11,614.00 ft (3,539.95 m)
Distance: 
2.50 mi (4.02 km)
Alpine climbing NCCS rating: 
Grade II
Net Elevation Gain: 
2,782.00 ft (847.95 m)
Year round: 
Yes
Parking Pass: 
None
Permit required: 
Yes
Permit reservation URL: 
https://refugealbert1er.ffcam.fr/home.html
Permit self-issue on site: 
No
Preferable Season(s):
Winter, Summer, Fall
Primary aspect: 
East facing
Total Distance: 
5.00 mi (8.05 km)
Total elevation gain: 
2,782.00 ft (847.95 m)
Trailhead Elevation: 
9,104.00 ft (2,774.90 m)
Typically multi-day: 
No
Current Local Weather:
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Adventure Description

Adventure Description

Pro Contributor

The ascent of Aiguille du Tour is among several easy climbs for the beginner alpinist in the Alps near Chamonix. Tour Glacier is a popular place for guides to take clients for their first climb in the valley. With easy access and a great hut to retreat to, it is very easy to spend couple nights and climb the many peaks available—among them, Tête Blanche

To summit Aiguille du Tour, start early to avoid the crowd. Typically, the ascent is busy enough that an obvious path leads toward Trient Glacier, but use common sense to find the correct course. Head toward Col Superior du Tour for the shorter route to the base of the climb. While the ascent is rated for beginners, it is wise to practice glacier travel prior to summiting; although the glacier is pretty tame, it still provides some hazards.

Once atop Col Superior du Tour, stop to enjoy the amazing view of the Plateau du Trient across the Swiss border. Turn left, heading north, for about a quarter-mile to get to the base of the climb. A short scramble leads around the rock band and up to the summit. Enjoy the 360-degree view toward France and Switzerland from the summit before heading back. It is likely that there will be a traffic jam going up and down in this area; make sure not to kick rocks onto other climbers and always be on alert for rocks coming from above. After a successful summit, follow the same path back to the hut the lift to Le Tour or spend another night and do a different climb the next day.

Like Tête Blanche, the Albert Premier Hut serves mountaineers in the area. The approach to the hut alone is a gorgeous hike, and it is worth doing on its own. Reserve a spot in the hut early, especially during the summer months, as it books quickly. The hut is very well equipped and even has a cafe that opens for lunch and dinner with a variety of beers and wines as a reward after hard climbs. During the summer, the kitchen gets busy every two hours between 2 a.m. and 6 a.m. in service of the usual alpine starts. The departure time depends on the summit in question.

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