Share:

Arête des Cosmiques

Other,

Start Exploring
Arête des Cosmiques

Share:

Advertisement
  • Before the first abseil.- Arête des Cosmiques
  • Iconic tower on the route with Mont Blanc in the background.- Arête des Cosmiques
  • The crux of Arete des Cosmiques.- Arête des Cosmiques
  • Arete des Cosmiques with Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Blanc in the background.- Arête des Cosmiques
  • Below the crux on Arete des Cosmiques.- Arête des Cosmiques
  • The crux of Arete des Cosmiques.- Arête des Cosmiques
  • Nearing the station.- Arête des Cosmiques
  • Looking back toward the ridge.- Arête des Cosmiques
  • The last chimney on Arete des Cosmiques.- Arête des Cosmiques
  • Mont Blanc.- Arête des Cosmiques
  • The last couple of pitches before reaching the station.- Arête des Cosmiques
Overview + Weather
Pros: 
Easy access. Amazing view of Vallée Blanche.
Cons: 
Busy route. Weather dependent.
Advertisement
Region:
Other,
Access: 
Vehicle
Climbing:
Trad climbing, Snow / glacier / ice route
Congestion: 
High
Pets allowed: 
No
Site characteristics: Drinking water: 
Snowmelt
Recommended Equipment:
Helmets, Harness / rope / anchors, Ice axe / crampons, Trad rack
Class / Rating: 
AD
Highest point: 
12,273.00 ft (3,740.81 m)
Alpine climbing NCCS rating: 
Grade V
Number of pitches: 
4
Year round: 
Yes
Parking Pass: 
None
Permit required: 
No
Preferable Season(s):
Spring, Summer
Primary aspect: 
North facing
Total Distance: 
1.20 mi (1.93 km)
Total elevation gain: 
853.00 ft (259.99 m)
Trailhead Elevation: 
12,273.00 ft (3,740.81 m)
Typically multi-day: 
No
Current Local Weather:
Advertisement
Adventure Description

Adventure Description

Pro Contributor

Arête des Cosmiques is one of the most popular routes in the Mont Blanc massif. Photos from this route are ubiquitious in guide books and magazines featuring climbs in this area, and it is easy to see why. The route itself isn't too difficult, though it is not without some challanging sections, and throughout the trip climbers will enjoy outrageous views of the Vallée Blanche and the surrounding mountains. The climb is amazing and features a mix of short glacier travel from Aiguille du Midi station down to Vallée Blanche and then a beautiful ridge climb on mixed snow and rock. This should definitely be on a list of must-do climbs if you ever find yourself in Chamonix. 

The climb begins and ends at Aiguille du Midi station. Start early to avoid the crowds and take the first telepherique for a ride that gains 9,000 feet to the station. Weave around tourists and head toward the ice tunnel that opens up to the exposed descent route to the glacier. Once you reach the glacier, traverse below the steep face of Aiguille du Midi toward Cosmique hut. The base of the climb starts just before the hut. This approach probably takes about 30 minutes. 

Easy mixed terrain marks the start of the climb, and the climb starts getting more exposed after passing the first small summit. While it always seems like there is a rock tower blocking the way, you'll weave around or go up and over those, which makes the route a very interesting climb. 

The crux is a short and exposed vertical wall, but because this route has seen so much traffic, some of the foot steps are worn deeply and are easy for your crampon to bite into. A couple of easier pitches will then lead you back to the station, where you have to climb a rickety ladder back as the tourists snap photos and look at you in awe.

Updates, Tips + Comments

Updates, Tips + Comments

Field Guide

Field Guide

Download
Advertisement
Location + Directions

Location + Directions

Nearby Adventures

(11 within a 30 mile radius)

Adventure Community

Adventure Community

Who Wants To Do It
3 Members
Who's Done It
Have you done this adventure? If so, be the first to check this adventure off your list.
Submission by
Pro Contributor
61 Adventures Explored
58 Adventures Published

Newsletter Signup

Join the Outdoor Project Community

Get access to essential planning materials and information for your next adventure. Take a few seconds to join the community. It’s FREE!

Free Field Guides + Maps

Post Updates, Tips + Comments

Organize + Track Your Adventures

Insider Detailed Info, News + Benefits

Custom Driving Directions

Recommended Campsites, Photos + Reservation Info