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Grands Montets: East Ridge

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Grands Montets: East Ridge

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  • Aiguille Verte in the distance.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Climber on the east ridge looking over Argentiere Glacier.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Aiguille Chardonet.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Last chute before the easy ridge to the station.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Climbers on east ridge.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Looking toward Argentiere Glacier.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Looking toward the station.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Last Chute.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • The glacier is melting fast.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Grands Montets station.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Petite Verte from the station.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Topping out on the ridge.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Almost at the station.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Almost at the station.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Looking at the ridge from the station.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Aiguille Verte in the distance.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • Aiguille cardonet.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
  • View from Lognan Station.- Grands Montets: East Ridge
Overview + Weather
Pros: 
Easy access. Beginner level. Amazing view.
Cons: 
Can be crowded. Lift closes fairly early.
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Region:
Other,
Access: 
Vehicle
Climbing:
Trad climbing, Snow / glacier / ice route
Congestion: 
Moderate
Pets allowed: 
No
Site characteristics: Drinking water: 
Snowmelt
Recommended Equipment:
Helmets
Class / Rating: 
PD +4c
Highest point: 
10,064.00 ft (3,067.51 m)
Alpine climbing NCCS rating: 
Grade IV
Net Elevation Gain: 
453.00 ft (138.07 m)
Number of pitches: 
2
Year round: 
Yes
Parking Pass: 
None
Permit required: 
No
Preferable Season(s):
Spring, Summer, Fall
Primary aspect: 
East facing
Total Distance: 
2.40 mi (3.86 km)
Total elevation gain: 
453.00 ft (138.07 m)
Trailhead Elevation: 
10,810.00 ft (3,294.89 m)
Typically multi-day: 
No
Current Local Weather:
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Adventure Description

Adventure Description

Pro Contributor

As a birthplace of alpine climbing, there is no shortage of great climbs in the valley of Chamonix. The east ridge of Grands Montets is graded F, and it is a great beginner route. 

With such a long history as a climbing hub, Chamonix has all of the appropriate infrastructure in place. The lifts, cable car, and panoramic views make the approach very pleasant and shorten the amount of slogging needed to reach the base of the climb. To do this climb, you actually will take the Lognan cable car and the Grands Montets cable car toward the station at the summit of Grand Montets at 3,300 meters. From this station there is an impressive view of Petite Verte, Glacier Argentiere, and all of the surrounding ice pinnacles. 

The stairs from the station will take you down to the glacier where climbers can start gearing up for their climb and non-climbers can walk around a short distance in safety. Once all geared up, the climb starts by heading to the left toward Argentiere Glacier. There is a short walk to the ridge before the route starts dropping down toward the bottom. Generally there are plenty of tracks to follow, but watch for the route at the base of the rock band. 

Even though the climb itself is rated F, it isn't lacking in exposure and it can feel much harder depending on conditions. There are plenty of scrambles and short climbing sections, and at times it the exposure becomes extreme on the crest of the ridge. Further along in this climb the ground will be easier to navigate compared to the beginning, and before you know it the viewing platform will come in view. When the weather is good, expect this platform to be crowded with tourists. Hop over the railing and you are back to the safety of the station. 

Weather can be a huge challange and the deciding factor when climbing this route, so pay attention on the forecast.

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