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Tête Blanche

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Tête Blanche

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  • The prominence of Aiguille du Chardonnet in the background.- Tête Blanche
  • The sunrise from Col du Tour Noir.- Tête Blanche
  • The sunrise from Col du Tour Noir.- Tête Blanche
  • The north face of Tête Blanche.- Tête Blanche
  • Aiguille du Chardonnet.- Tête Blanche
  • Looking down from summit of Tête Blanche.- Tête Blanche
  • Heading back toward Albert Premier Hut.- Tête Blanche
  • Heading back toward Albert Premier Hut.- Tête Blanche
  • The summit of Tête Blanche.- Tête Blanche
  • The north arrete of Tête Blanche.- Tête Blanche
  • The summit of Tête Blanche.- Tête Blanche
Overview + Weather
Pros: 
Easy access.
Cons: 
Crowded.
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Region:
Other,
Access: 
Hike-in
Climbing:
Snow / glacier / ice route, Trad climbing
Congestion: 
High
Pets allowed: 
No
Site characteristics: Drinking water: 
Snowmelt
Recommended Equipment:
Helmets, Harness / rope / anchors, Ice axe / crampons, Trad rack
Highest point: 
11,230.00 ft (3,422.90 m)
Distance: 
2.50 mi (4.02 km)
Alpine climbing NCCS rating: 
Grade II
Net Elevation Gain: 
2,566.00 ft (782.12 m)
Year round: 
Yes
Parking Pass: 
None
Permit required: 
Yes
Permit reservation URL: 
https://refugealbert1er.ffcam.fr/home.html
Permit self-issue on site: 
No
Preferable Season(s):
Summer, Fall
Primary aspect: 
North facing
Total Distance: 
4.85 mi (7.81 km)
Total elevation gain: 
2,566.00 ft (782.12 m)
Trailhead Elevation: 
8,947.00 ft (2,727.05 m)
Typically multi-day: 
No
Current Local Weather:
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Adventure Description

Adventure Description

Pro Contributor

Tête Blanche (11,230 ft) is a great introduction for a mixed climbing experience in Chamonix valley area. The summit is more accessible and less crowded than the nearby Aiguille du Tour. Being in close proximity, Tête Blanche is generally climbed in combination with Petite Fourche (11,548 ft), and the pair of ascents is widely understood to be one of the finest climbs in the Alps.

While there are multiple approaches to the summit, the northern ridge is described here. Graded PD (peu difficile), it is a non-technical ascent firmly in the range of ability and experience of many beginners. In comparison to the ascent from Col du Tour, at one point the more common ascent, the northern ridge is a more interesting climb. Both originate at the Albert Premier Hut, the hub for most of the climbs in this area and just a couple hours from the summit.

The approach begins directly to the north of Tête Blanche. Climb the ridge along an easy grade that will steepen the higher you get, especially near a big flat rock table. The crux follows this table section, starting with an exposed traverse followed by easy scrambling toward the summit plateau. This section requires only one short pitch.

From the summit, follow the obvious route to Petite Fourche or descend via the normal route to Albert Premier Hut by traversing the glacier.

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(13 within a 30 mile radius)

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