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Black Peak: Northeast Ridge

North Cascades, Washington

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Black Peak: Northeast Ridge

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  • Views of Ann Lake along the hike into camp.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • First look at Black Peak from Heather Pass.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • The northeast ridge route follows the right skyline.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Looking back on Lewis Lake, Cutthroat Peak, and Washington Pass. - Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Approaching Wing Lake in the shadow of Black Peak.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Alpenglow from camp at Wing Lake.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Be prepared to share you campsite with the local goats.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Mount Hardy to the north being lit by the alpenglow.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Mount Hardy to the north being lit by the alpenglow.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Full moon lighting camp and Black Peak.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Looking up the northeast ridge from the col.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Great simul-climbing terrain. Mostly third, fourth, and some easy fifth class climbing.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Many route options exist along the northeast ridge.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Looking back on the northeast ridge with Mount Hardy and Cutthroat Peak in the distance. - Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Looking back on the northeast ridge with Mount Hardy and Cutthroat Peak in the distance. - Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
  • Looking west from the summit at Mount Goode, Buckner Mountain, and Boston Peak.- Black Peak: Northeast Ridge
Overview + Weather
Pros: 
Great views. Exposure. Accessible. Camping.
Cons: 
Poor rock.
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Region:
North Cascades, WA
Access: 
Hike-in
Climbing:
Trad climbing
Congestion: 
Moderate
Pets allowed: 
Yes
Site characteristics: Drinking water: 
Snowmelt
Number of days: 
2
Recommended Equipment:
Helmets, Harness / rope / anchors, Trad rack
Class / Rating: 
Low 5
Highest point: 
8,970.00 ft (2,734.06 m)
Distance: 
6.00 mi (9.66 km)
Alpine climbing NCCS rating: 
Grade III
Number of pitches: 
10
Year round: 
Yes
Parking Pass: 
None
Permit required: 
No
Preferable Season(s):
Spring, Summer, Fall
Primary aspect: 
North facing
Total Distance: 
6.00 mi (9.66 km)
Total elevation gain: 
4,100.00 ft (1,249.68 m)
Trailhead Elevation: 
4,870.00 ft (1,484.38 m)
Typically multi-day: 
Yes
Current Local Weather:
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Adventure Description

Adventure Description

Contributor

Black Peak is tucked away on the northeast border of North Cascades National Park and Wenatchee National Forest. The approach and camping are in the national forest, so no permits are required on this climb. The real appeal of this climb are the views and exposure along the northeast ridge. Once climbers gain the ridge they will have views from Buckner to Eldorado off to the west and from Cutthroat to Washington Pass to the east. The route descends off the loose and rocky south ridge of Black Peak with views of Mount Goode and the Bridge Creek drainage. 

From the Rainy Pass Trailhead, the approach trail goes through a series of lakes and over Heather Pass. From Heather Pass there is a small boulder field and short climb before reaching camp at Wing Lake. The climbing begins at the low point on the northeast ridge. The climbing is mostly fourth and some low-fith class terrain. Lower on the ridge, the route meanders back and forth along the ridge. The top of the route offers true ridge climbing and exposure. 

Once on top, follow the cairns down the south ridge to the low point before descending into the Wing Lake basin.

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Nearby Camping + Lodging

(9 within a 30 mile radius)

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(22 within a 30 mile radius)

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