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Climbing
Non-technical rock
Alpine climbing NCCS rating
Class II
Elevation Gain
1,540.00 m (5,052.49 ft)
Distance
15.30 km (9.51 mi)
Please respect the outdoors and leave no trace. One tip how to dispose of waste properly: Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. For more information, visit https://lnt.org/learn/7-principles

As the hardest route in the ever popular Scrambles in Southwest British Columbia, Joffre Peak is one of the coast's most enjoyable scrambles. With decent rock and some tricky routefinding, it's an excellent alpine day out. 

From the trailhead on the Duffey Lake Road you follow the well-marked summer trail up the Cerise Creek. The trail heads south after the bridge and heads up onto the lower flanks of Joffree and onto a logging road. Eventually the road forks, and the main trail follows the right fork uphill. The logging road ends, diving back into the woods on heavily rooted but well-maintained trail. The trail takes a little time to ascend and gets particularily steep through a talus field shortly before meeting Keith's Hut. From here you can spend the night or continue up the ridge to the looker's right of the hut. The trail begins in the southwest corner of the meadow. Up the ridge it gains to a large lump called Motel 66. This popular camping spot has beautiful views, but be sure to bring wag bags as there are no toilet facilities. Increasing human traffic in this area is stressing this environment and creating bear attractants. 

The route begins here and crosses down over talus fields trending toward a big snow field. Many parties choose to do this route early in the day to avoid late rockfall and take advantage of stiffer snow conditions that make travel easier. Above this snow field there is a big shelf right on the edge of the glacier that affords good views of the valley and the route. A ridge ramps up to a steep face that can be traversed and ascended to a slope beneath a big snowfield that remains well into the late season. From here you edge up against the snowfield to a wide ramp that isn't really visible until you are beside it. The ramp ends abruptly at the ridge, and there is some scrambling up an arete followed by one exposed traverse move that puts you onto wide open talus fields. This wraps around the false peak into a silt-filled gulley. Awkward and loose steps make for the least pleasant terrain of the day, but you're there on the summit. 

The descent offers few suprises and goes quickly, though it can really pound the knees. Moving quickly is advisable because some areas are prone to rockfall. 

Equipment

You can bring ropes on this scramble because there is one good spot to rappel the crux. A 50-meter rope would be required and is probably not worth the effort unless some members of the party are particularly uncertain on their feet in the mountains. Helmets are essential and decent hiking boots are recommended. In the early season, ice axes and crampons would be nice to have. Aside from that it's the usual equipment one would expect for a scramble in the alpine. Ten essentials and extra food are advisable as conditions do change rapidly.

 

For a detailed technical description of this route, refer to Scrambles in Southwest British Columbia by Matt Gunn.

Logistics + Planning

Preferable season(s)

Summer
Fall

Congestion

Moderate

Parking Pass

None

Open Year-round

Yes

Number of days

2

Pros

Excellent rock. Consistently interesting scrambling. Good entry level mountaineering.

Cons

Long, knee-pounding descent. Tricky route finding. Overhead hazard.

Pets allowed

Yes, with restrictions

Trailhead Elevation

4,166.67 ft (1,270.00 m)

Highest point

8,825.46 ft (2,690.00 m)

Address

BC-99
D'Arcy, BC V0N 1L0
Canada

Features

Vault toilet
Backcountry camping
Glacier
Shelters
Wildflowers
Old-growth forest
Big vistas

Access

Hike-in

Typically multi-day

Yes

Permit required

No

Primary aspect

East facing

Site characteristics: Drinking water

Unfrozen water

Location

Field Guide

Nearby Adventures

Squamish-Lillooet Area, British Columbia
Squamish-Lillooet Area, British Columbia

Nearby Lodging + Camping

Squamish-Lillooet Area, British Columbia
Strawberry Point, Twin One, Lizzie Bay, Driftwood Bay
Squamish-Lillooet Area, British Columbia

Comments

03.08.19
Updating images to guidebook standards
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