Climbing
Sport climbing, Trad climbing, Non
Alpine climbing NCCS rating
Grade II
Elevation Gain
126.00 m (413.39 ft)
Distance
1.76 km (1.09 mi)
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Lighthouse Park has long been a favorite rock climbing location for summer crag sessions. It tends to be less popular with the serious climbing crowd who look down on top-rope-only climbs, but the area's scenic, local novelty and easy access to a post-climb dip make it a popular choice all the same. The rock is all good quality, if a little polished. All the routes at Juniper Point and Arbutus Alley are designed with top roping in mind. There are several bolted anchors on top. Some are better placed than others.

There are three main areas. The Big Pin routes face downtown Vancouver and are defined by a gigantic piton wedged in the rock. Around the corner from this, a lone juniper tree sits above the larger collection of routes. Around the corner, about 100 meters due north, is a narrow channel of rock with three arbutus trees that mark Arbutus Alley.

The Big Piton has several easy to intermediate routes in the 5.7 to 5.10b range. A couple start right up beside the high-tide mark, and it is often easiest to be lowered in.

Juniper Point can be accessed by coming down a trail through salal on climber’s left of the routes. Walk down this trail and then along the rock bench that sits beneath the anchors. It’s not a big area for standing, so if there are large groups it’s often better to source your climb elsewhere. The top ropes are a fair ways down the incline, so newer climbers may feel uncomfortable approaching them as they are a bit awkward.

Arbutus Alley is left of Juniper Point, and you’ll follow a scramble through salal and boulders to get to a steep climbing wall of granite. Several arbutus trees sit at the base. Keep heading up this fairly steep trail to gain the top of the boulder and the anchors for the route below. There is one sport climb here that goes at 10a. It’s a good area to head to when elsewhere gets a little too busy.

Logistics + Planning

Preferable season(s)

Summer

Congestion

High

Parking Pass

Day Use

Open Year-round

Yes

Pros

Swimming options. Short trail.

Cons

Crowded. Spectators.

Pets allowed

Allowed with Restrictions

Trailhead Elevation

229.66 ft (70.00 m)

Highest point

262.47 ft (80.00 m)

Features

Old-growth forest
Wildlife
Bird watching
Big Game Watching
Big vistas
Wildflowers
Vault toilet

Access

Vehicle

Typically multi-day

No

Permit required

No

Primary aspect

South facing

Class / Rating

5.5-5.11b

Drinking water

Unfrozen water

Location

Field Guide

Nearby Adventures

Vancouver Metro Area, British Columbia
Vancouver Metro Area, British Columbia

Nearby Lodging + Camping

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