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Climbing
Trad climbing
Alpine climbing NCCS rating
Grade III
Elevation Gain
4,100.00 ft (1,249.68 m)
Distance
6.00 mi (9.66 km)
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Black Peak is tucked away on the northeast border of North Cascades National Park and Wenatchee National Forest. The approach and camping are in the national forest, so no permits are required on this climb. The real appeal of this climb are the views and exposure along the northeast ridge. Once climbers gain the ridge they will have views from Buckner to Eldorado off to the west and from Cutthroat to Washington Pass to the east. The route descends off the loose and rocky south ridge of Black Peak with views of Mount Goode and the Bridge Creek drainage. 

From the Rainy Pass Trailhead, the approach trail goes through a series of lakes and over Heather Pass. From Heather Pass there is a small boulder field and short climb before reaching camp at Wing Lake. The climbing begins at the low point on the northeast ridge. The climbing is mostly fourth and some low-fith class terrain. Lower on the ridge, the route meanders back and forth along the ridge. The top of the route offers true ridge climbing and exposure. 

Once on top, follow the cairns down the south ridge to the low point before descending into the Wing Lake basin.

Logistics + Planning

Preferable season(s)

Spring
Summer
Fall

Congestion

Moderate

Parking Pass

None

Open Year-round

Yes

Days

2

Pros

Great views. Exposure. Accessible. Camping.

Cons

Poor rock.

Pets allowed

Allowed

Trailhead Elevation

4,870.00 ft (1,484.38 m)

Highest point

8,970.00 ft (2,734.06 m)

Features

Backcountry camping
Big vistas

Access

Hike-in

Typically multi-day

Yes

Permit required

No

Primary aspect

North facing

Class / Rating

Low 5

Drinking water

Snowmelt

Location

Field Guide

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