Glacier Peak via White Chuck Glacier / North Fork Sauk River

Glacier Peak requires endurance and self-sufficiency. Being the most remote of the Cascade Volcanoes, many spend much of the first day reaching base camp between White Pass and the White Chuck Glacier. The climbing is straightforward and technically moderate, but route finding, rockfall, and snow travel increase the difficulty of this route.

The climb begins with a 9-mile hike to White Pass through an old-growth cedar forest. Depending on the time of year, many snow chutes can make the final miles to White Pass slow-going. From White Pass, the route traces the ridge east of White Mountain to reach one of a few different passes that access the Glacier Basin area.

From White Pass, the route follows rolling snowfields for miles before gaining the White Chuck Glacier at around 8,400 feet. From here, climbers have an option of ascending Disappointment Peak, which is more direct but poses significant rockfall hazards. The more popular option is to skirt Disappointment Peak to the lookers right while keeping a safe distance from rockfall and avalanches coming from the upper slopes. After reaching the Cool Glacier, the route ascends the glacier to meet the Gerdine Ridge/Summit Ridge.