Went up this route in summer when it is typically climbed. There is no technical scrambling as described. The route finding gets tricky in one broad bowl with lot's of loose dirt and scree, but it's still sub-third class.

The ridge has one exposed section that will be scary for those who are still getting used to exposure. But it's solid, which ample room for but sliding along if you are really scared. A great place to test your exposure confidence. At no point is it necessary to use your hands, though many will feel happier doing so.

Very in depth review. Well done! Also the photos are superb. I just want to address some easy to make mistakes in the technique though as there are some risks to the techniques demonstrated that I feel the review didn't fully address.

Ice axes should never, ever be used without a helmet. Any terrain that is steep enough to require a helmet likely has some overhead hazard, or significant enough risk of falling to merit head protection.
There is also a rare, but serious injury from ice axes as their habit to skip into your face, forehead, or skull when hitting ice, or rock at speed can be fatal. Fun fact, this is what the tiny central skull fracture on George Mallory's skull suggest killed him (Source: Wade Davis' Into the Silence).

Helmets for snow travel is a more recent standard, and is still gaining traction, but it is what the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations and the UIAA now recommends for Mountaineering Courses around the world.

A side note, less critically dangerous, but the model in this review is holding the ice axe the wrong way around. This would be fine on round steeper than 40 degress, but it actually is increasing risks in the terrain shown. Testing by the UIAA and IFMGA has shown that it is significantly less likely to self arrest with your hand in dagger position compared to "a piolet". While it's commendable that the author sought out practice once they purchased the tool, this is not displaying proper technique. Practice should come after training from certified professionals to ensure expertise and safety. I would highly recommend seeking out guided instruction from an AMGA professional.

Check out this site for a bit more info:

Here are some videos of IFMGA Guide demonstrating proper technique:
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/winter-skills-kicking-steps-and-an-introdu...
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/winter-skills-how-to-ice-axe-arrest/
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/winter-skills-how-to-choose-an-ice-axe/

Written Article: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/essential_winter_skills_walki...

Source: Have taught as a volunteer for BCMC Intro Mountaineering Courses and worked (admin) for a IFMGA guiding company. I have done multiple courses with IFMGA certified BMG and ACMG guides.

The vast majority of Keith's hut users are like the author of this article. Respectful and incredibly gracious for the use of this wonderful space.

Unfortunately in recent years garbage has been increasing and firewood stocks have been rapidly depleted. Reports of bonfires, and loud speaker parties are still uncommon, but not unheard of it. There is also a rapid decline in donations. The Keith Flavelle Memorial Hut Society is concerned, and I am making efforts to let folks know that while the libertarian principles of no bookings, and leaving users to folks to sort out their own conflicts remain there are a few principles that need to be reiterated

1) Firewood is incredibly expensive to fly in. It's about $15 a log. Think of the folks who might be there on a cold July weekend before you throw in a extra log in a very well insulated building.
2) There should be ABSOLUTELY NO FIRES OUTSIDE THE STOVE. The firewood is for HEATING PURPOSES ONLY
3) Respect your hut mates. Speakers, phone music and the like is not banned, but come on.... if you're going to play noise, ask the people around you first if it's chill

4) This hut is founded for the purpose of ski touring and mountaineering. That means alpine starts, and early mornings. Be courteous at night so that others will be courteous in the morning.