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Climbing
Snow/glacier/ice route, Non-technical rock
Alpine climbing NCCS rating
Class II
Elevation Gain
1,200.00 m (3,937.01 ft)
Distance
6.20 km (3.85 mi)
Please respect the outdoors and leave no trace. One tip how to dispose of waste properly: Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. For more information, visit https://lnt.org/learn/7-principles

Mount Matier is an excellent mountaineering route for newer mountaineers with some glacier travel experience and a lot of scrambling experience. In good conditions, the glacier is manageable with fairly straightforward routefinding. The trailhead, however, is an unsigned, hard-to-find dirt pullout on the side of the Duffy Lake Road. The pin in the description is accurate. 

The trail drops down to a log bridge river crossing and through a temperate rainforest for a couple of kilometres. You'll reach an abandoned logging road that continues for 2 kilometres until you dip back into the forest. From there the trail is well marked, rooty, but well maintained. Just beneath the treeline is the Keith Flavelle Memorial Hut. It is a voluntary donation hut, but it's maintenance is expensive, as is the firewood that is flown in by helicopter. Recently fewer and fewer people have been making donations, and there is talk that the hut will be passed off to a corporate group or to a park. Please help keep this piece of West Coast Heritage independent by donating as you pass through.

There is also a really great camping spot further up the ridge, which is gained by taking the trail heading north from the hut. The campsite sits on the ridge beneath Mount Joffre, and it offers quick and easy access to the glacier. It saves you about an hour of approach in the morning, and it's spectacular place to camp. 

For the climb proper you'll ascend the hiking trail that goes up to the campsite. From the campsite you'll head across talus onto a snow bench. From here you'll work your way up the snow between a cliff band around 2,050 meters. Continue up the snow field, crossing a couple of small crevasses until you reach the Joffre-Matier Col. There is an outcropping of rock that you can bivvy on as well. Good stone bivywalls are already in place, making for decent shelter if you want to stop for lunch or use this as a launching point to climb a couple of different peaks. It also affords a good view of the northeast ridge of Matier. 

Ascend directly toward the ridge, crossing a few significant crevasses. For the northwest route, head immediately west about 100 meters beneath the ridge. A slight ridge runs down and separates the north and the northeast face. Proceed about 250 meters and head straight up the 40-degree slope for the summit. There is rock near the top, but it's solid fourth-class granitic rock. 

The north ridge has a small break 5 metres to the west of where it touches down. From here you can scramble up extremely loose 30- to 40-degree talus. It gains the upper ridge onto much better rock and proceeds along a spectacular narrow ridge to the summit. The estimated time to reach the summit from the hut is 6 to 10 hours. You can find a GPX file for this adventure here: http://www.movescount.com/move...

 

Mountaineering is very dangerous if you do not have the proper skills. If you have not taken a crevasse rescue course, seek the services of the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides

Pack List

  • Harness
  • Helmet
  • Ice ax
  • Crampons and Mountaineering Boots
  • Glacier travel kit (if you don't know exactly what goes in this, hire a guide or take a course)
  • Rope
  • Map and compass
  • Bivy gear if you choose that option
  • Sleeping bag, mat, stove, and food for the hut
  • You could bring an alpine rack, but the terrain is at most fourth class. 
  • Pack (50 liter or 60 liter and a summit sack)
  • Four-part clothing layering system that is appropriate for mountaineering (base layer, mid layer, shell, and belay layers)
  • In winter 
  • Avalanche gear
  • Skis/splitboard 
  • Be prepared to sleep outside on a weekend. The hut gets very, very busy. Snow cave gear like tea lights is recomended. 
  • Ice ax
  • Crampons
  • Glacier gear
  • Picket
  • 10-centimeter ice screw

Logistics + Planning

Preferable season(s)

Spring
Summer

Congestion

Moderate

Parking Pass

None

Open Year-round

Yes

Pros

Easier mountaineering. Beautiful area. Good camping options.

Cons

Increasing crevasse risk. Long approach. Must pack out all human waste.

Pets allowed

Yes, with restrictions

Trailhead Elevation

6,463.25 ft (1,970.00 m)

Highest point

8,982.94 ft (2,738.00 m)

Address

BC-99
D'Arcy, BC V0N 1L0
Canada

Features

Glacier
Backcountry camping
Waterfalls
Wildflowers
Big vistas
Old-growth forest

Access

Hike-in

Typically multi-day

No

Permit required

No

Primary aspect

North facing

Site characteristics: Drinking water

Unfrozen water

Location

Field Guide

Nearby Adventures

Squamish-Lillooet Area, British Columbia

Nearby Lodging + Camping

Squamish-Lillooet Area, British Columbia
Strawberry Point, Twin One, Lizzie Bay, Driftwood Bay
Squamish-Lillooet Area, British Columbia

Comments

03.08.19
Updating to guidebook standard
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